When my long-distance bestie Elie got married in Tokyo last year, I had to be there. We’ve been friends for a decade, and have often dreamt of meeting in Bali or New York. Yet I have no photographs from the event. I couldn’t even bring myself to post a selfie on Instagram. I wish I could claim it was for being fully present, but in reality, it was because the instant I stepped off the plane, my skin flared up with such deep-seated cystic acne that it squashed my ability to enjoy myself on what was meant to be a trip of a lifetime.
The Beginning
It started in my late 20s, around the time I was preparing for the bar exam. I had never had acne before, so surely if I made it this far in life, I was one of the lucky ones?
At first, it appeared slowly, but increasingly moved into deeper more aggressive spots that started appearing alongside other chronic symptoms – which I later learned were stress-related. The second I got news that I passed the exam, the spots disappeared. The funny thing about stress is that I never really felt it. Working in corporate since I was 18 taught me how to compartmentalise. But I have since learned, your body takes note of stress even when you don’t, and so acne regrettably became an internal compass for when I don’t acknowledge my emotions, or am running on empty.
Does It All Point Back To Stress?
I’ve gone through breakups, a pandemic, a master’s degree and a career change. No matter what I do to treat them, the blemishes come back. The pattern became impossible to ignore. I noticed my break outs appeared when I was faced with uncertainty – things like short-term employment, situationships – basically when I’m feeling overwhelmed or anxious.
Though I’m not alone. Adult acne is becoming increasingly widespread, with roughly one in five adults aged between 25 and 39 suffering from it globally, according to a recent study by Pierre Fabre Laboratories. Between 1990 and 2021, adult acne increased by 66%, according to the Global Burden of Disease. This is a highly concerning stat about universal (mental) health, albeit proof that shared sorrow is half sorrow.
Like most modern time malaise, experts chalk the ubiquity of adult acne down to stress, poor lifestyle choices and environmental stressors. I wanted to hear this myself so booked into see A-list facialist, Teresa Tarmey, who was so insightful on the matter. “Increased stress levels, lack of sleep and dietary habits can all impact the skin,” explains Tarmey, whose patient roster includes Kate Moss and Sienna Miller. She noted that her clinic has seen a significant rise in the number of people seeking acne treatments in recent years, most of whom are aged between 20 and 40. “We’re also seeing more cases linked to hormonal imbalances and environmental aggressors such as pollution” she shared.
BEFORE TREATMENT
AFTER TREATMENT
The Treatment Plan
Regular acne and anti-scar treatments are expensive, time-consuming, and, depending on their intensity, often involve some sort of trauma and subsequently, downtime. So while I swear by microneedling (though never during an active breakout) for the way it balances the complexion and makes skin look oh so luminous, for me, it usually involves 5-7 days of healing. So you can imagine how excited I was to try the new Aerolase Neo protocol at Tarmey’s clinic, which prides itself on zero downtime.
The treatment targets the bacteria responsible for breakouts, calming active inflammation while reducing redness and improving skin clarity. “Because it uses a gentle, controlled energy, it’s suitable for all skin types and requires little to no downtime,’ Tarmey explains.
During the first session, my lovely therapist Philippa asked me about my skin concerns and goals. “I think it’s obvious,” I jested, pointing at my irritated skin before going into my history of acne, previous treatments and my current concerns. We focused on active breakouts; while there weren’t many at the time, I had a few red bumps along the jawline and neck that made me feel insecure ahead of the season changing and shedding my winter scarves. I lay under the laser for 45, and it didn’t hurt at all – I even drifted off a few times. We ended the protocol with some blue LED light therapy to kill whatever acne-causing bacteria might have survived, and my skin felt revived and energised.
My next session, which took place two weeks later, was a different ballgame. This time, I wanted to focus on redness and pigmentation, more prevalent on my face these days than actual spots. This setting of the Neo wasn’t as pain-free as before, but still manageable. I was strongly advised to avoid using actives and LED light for the first 24 hours, and make sure to wear SPF.
Following these two sessions, my skin definitely looks more balanced and hydrated. Active breakouts seem to have flattened (or just about), and my complexion more harmonised, smooth and luminous. I think with a few more visits to the clinic (twist my arm!), my skin will be just about ready for summer.
Stick to the Routine
Aesthetic specialist and Skincycles founder, Alice Henshaw, once told me: “In-clinic treatments are like going to the gym, but your home care is your diet. You can train hard, but if you go home and eat poorly, you’ll never see your best results.”
During my uphill battle with acne, my skincare routine has come a long way from random ‘anti-acne’ products (how ronseal), evolving into a harmonious symphony of actives and nutrients that treat, calm and restore the complexion. And while working in beauty offers me exclusive access to some of the best formulas in the world, these are the staples I keep going back to time and again.
Maya Recommends
I got this mask to review last year, and honestly, went into it thinking it was more of a gimmick than an actual fix. But after Japan-gate, I was desperate for anything that might improve the look and feel of my skin, and boy oh boy did this baby deliver. I use the pink and green settings, which promote collagen production and target inflammation and pigmentation. With consistent use — we’re talking every night — I watched it make my cysts go basically extinct. It’s easy to travel with, too, meaning there’s no repeat of overseas horrors.
As someone veering on the fairer side, SPF is non-negotiable. In the years of treating my sensitive skin I have trialled many formulations, textures and finishes, and can proudly say that La Roche Posay’s Anthelios face mist is one of my favourites sunscreens. Firstly, because the French brand knows what it’s when it comes to sensitive, acne-prone skin; so while Anthelios is a chemical sunscreen, often less recommended for irritated skin types, the formula is non-comadenic and delivers a matte finish that helps with shine control. You also couldn’t ask for an easier application (and reapplication if you’re being good) – a simple dousing of the face with the thermal water-rich mist and you can enjoy wide range UV protection.
No acne-approved skincare list is complete without a trusty spot patch, and these have been my favourites I’ve tried so far. Infused with Centella Asiatica extract, a K-beauty botanical known for its soothing, healing and anti-inflammatory properties, these patches do more than extract excess sebum, actually repairing irritated skin. I buy them in bulk.
£15
The potency of Weleda’s Skin Food range is no secret — the brand recently marked a centennial of the beloved nourishing complex. What I like about the serum, though, is that even those with sensitive skin can enjoy its plumping, glow-inducing effect. Combining hyaluronic acid and ceramides, it’s deeply nourishing and leaves my dryness-prone skin hydrated and comfortable throughout the day, without overwhelming it with comedogenics that will trigger a breakout. And for that price? On the shelf it goes.
Gentle and hydrating, this cleanser not only removes impurities with utmost care but also helps strengthen the skin barrier, which many acne products and treatments tend to compromise. Plus, its creamy texture melts beautifully into skin, making the whole experience feel particularly luxurious. It’s truly a highlight in my routine.
Final Thoughts
I’m not going to pretend that acne doesn’t suck. More than it being painful, my battle with it has taken a toll on my confidence, often making me feel less like myself. Perhaps vain, but harrowing all the same.
Truth be told, by the time I was leaving for Tokyo, life was lifing so hard that I arrived there completely depleted of energy and curiosity to explore the city. It was a vulnerable position to begin with, then, adding to it a severe acne flare-up — no wonder I became extremely self-conscious. With some distance, though, I developed a new perspective on insecurity: compassion. Seeing myself as more than the sum of my breakouts.
Almost a decade into this journey, I’ve accepted that acne is a way for my body to communicate. When I’m all go-go-go, when I compartmentalise to a point where I eventually suppress my emotions rather than sit with them, and when all of that leads to inevitable burnout where it’s hard to properly care for myself, a pimple may sound like the worst possible thing to deal with on top of it all, but I now see it as my body drawing a red line, calling on me to put myself first, to invest in activities and people that enrich my life and focus on activities that create mental space rather than drain it. And I get why that would be an urgent message.
“One of the most frustrating things about acne is that drying out breakouts only makes them worse. So while you have to use acids, peels and exfoliators regularly – maintaining a moisturised, well-nourished complexion is absolutely key for oil control and healing. This face cream from Niance Switzerland strikes the perfect balance with a featherlight formula that absorbs like a dream while actually delivering long-lasting hydration. If the empties is anything to go on, I’m now on my third tub, and counting.”