We’ve All Destroyed Our Skin Barrier (Now How Do We Fix It?) 

It feels like everyone’s skin is sensitive these days. On set, models constantly mention how reactive their skin is—and the same goes for my friends and colleagues, all comparing lists of products they can no longer tolerate. During a recent pharmacy haul in the South of France, I noticed shelves filled with formulas promising to hydrate, soothe, and protect the skin barrier. Sensitive skin is trending, and the products we are now turning to feel gentle and supportive as opposed to previously favoured acids and retinoids.

As skincare has advanced and everyone has become their own dermatologist, the popularity of ingredients that exfoliate and encourage cell turnover, such as AHA’s and Retinol have been used in an attempt to reverse or prevent the ageing process. Often this is to great effect, but sometimes to the point of damage. We seem to accept the tingling or burning sensation that occurs with many of these products (Drunk Elephant BabyFacial I’m looking at you), and will shrug it off as part of the process. Ultimately though, if your skin is in pain that’s a warning sign that you are exfoliating more aggressively than probably needed, which can disrupt the mantle of your skin. Your outermost layer of skin (or stratum corneum if you’re feeling fancy) is responsible for protecting the tissues underneath and maintaining hydration. If this becomes damaged, it has a harder time fulfilling its role. If you find that your skin has inflammation, red or rough patches, tenderness or any of the aforementioned stinging when applying some of your favourite products, (and it’s not due to eczema or rosacea), it may be that you’ve damaged your skin barrier, and a reset could be needed. Think of it like rehab for your skin to get it back on track to that dewy, healthy complexion we are all aiming for.

So do we just stop everything? Press the pause button and go au natural? Probably not, as this could potentially cause more damage, even leading to dermatitis or a fungal infection, neither of which you ever want in your life. The best way to support and strengthen your skin barrier is to keep your routine calm and regular, leaving the exciting products at the back of your vanity until things have settled down. Speaking to QMS facialist Rowan Hall-Farrise (who has magic hands), she advises following a simple, barrier-supportive routine to regain the skin’s health. “Use gentle cream cleansers without foaming or cleansing oils/balms as they can draw your natural oil from the skin, giving an imbalance. Limit chemical exfoliants to 1–2 times per week and avoid high concentrations of alcohol, sulfates, fragrances, and especially essential oils.” shares Hall-Farrise, “Daily use of broad-spectrum SPF 50  is essential, even when indoors, as UV and environmental stress weaken the barrier over time”. The goal here is to get skin feeling stable and resilient so that when you choose to reintroduce those favoured actives, it can handle the exfoliation and lead to cell renewal without a radical reaction, resulting in radiance and smoothness that doesn’t compromise the integrity of the skin.

If you’re already feeling red raw then you might be worried about visiting your favourite clinic for any form of facial but fear not, there are treatments you can do that will help strengthen the skin barrier and aid collagen production to enable natural healing to occur. London based facialist Teresa Tarmey, whose clinic sees a multitude of sensitive clients, advocates for a regular course of microneedling to help build that strength and resilience. “Microneedling, when done properly, is one of the most effective ways to support the skin long term” says Tarmey, “It encourages collagen production, improves skin texture and helps active ingredients absorb more efficiently, but it has to be gentle and consistent. I usually advise holding off on peels, physical exfoliations or treatments that use high-strength acids for a while, especially if your skin is reactive.” A fix-all holy grail of skincare treatments, microneedling can dramatically improve skin texture and is suitable for even the most sensitive of souls; just ask for that extra bit of numbing cream if your pain threshold is particularly low. And if the idea of tiny needles in your face isn’t your idea of fun, then speak to your facialist about soothing masks and serums that can be applied in conjunction with a cooling mist system to help promote absorption and moisture retention, calming down any inflammation or reactions that may be occurring.

What both Hall-Farrise and Tarmey absolutely agree on is that hydration is key and something that can also be achieved at home with the right products by checking ingredients which will help support and comfort as opposed to exacerbate. Look for moisturisers and serums that utilise ceramides and fatty acids to help restore lipids to the skin and anti inflammatories such as niacinamide to help reduce any tenderness. Avoid those harsh cleansers and toners and put acids on the back burner until you feel ready to dip your toe in again. Looking for a treatment you can do from the comfort of your own home? The use of red light therapy LED masks have shown promising results when it comes to collagen production and reducing inflammation plus it’s pretty restful and a reason just to pause life for a moment whilst you lie down and relax. When you do tiptoe back into the world of higher strength actives such as retinols, AHAs or Vitamin C go slow and steady, building up usage and pulling back if any irritation occurs; be sure to use a barrier balm for any particularly reactive spots.

Repairing and strengthening that skin barrier may feel like a long game but stick with it, the results will be worth it for a face that feels nourished and glowing with fewer reactions down the line ready for when the next trending ingredient occurs and we all start experimenting all over again.