Red Light Therapy Cheat Sheet

In the beginning of the #WellnessWorld, there were two-ingredient pancakes and coconut-encrusted energy balls. Then came the advent of standing desks, Pilates and smushing together your hot girl walk with your hot girl work-from-home routine. Now, there’s red and infrared light – and it’s everywhere. Most readily available through the use of LED masks, saunas and other often expensive devices, red and near-infrared light therapy has an impressive benefits sheet – proven to repair tissue, expedite wound healing, rejuvenate skin, promote collagen production and more.

Its popularity is filtering out from the voices who make up the wellness world on social media. Searches for red light therapy have increased by 200 percent in the United States over the past year with searches for “is red light therapy a hoax” proliferating (+450 percent) also. In the UK, searches for red light masks are up 70 percent over the last year, too.

Jeannette Aranda or, to her loyal 379k followers (of which I number and have done for the best part of 10 years), @shutthekaleup, is a red light disciple, regularly sharing pictures and videos inside near-infrared saunas or using a sizeable red light at home.

“I started using red light therapy back in 2018 when I got pregnant with my first son,” she tells me. “My chiropractor had explained the benefits to me and let me use his for postpartum recovery. Since having my sons, I have taken our health and wellness seriously. With red light therapy, it’s the longevity aspect for me. I like to take precautions and incorporate things like that to keep our well-being running smoothly. When bedtime rolls around, the red light is our ‘night light’. It’s perfect for supporting our circadian rhythms and anytime one of us is hurt or has any inflammation we sit in front of it. They love it.”

For Phoebe, a 25-year-old video editor, red light came at a crucial time in her acne journey.

“My skin was desperate and I was on the last medication before having to turn to roaccutane. The mask I bought (Omnilux) was recommended by a dermatologist and it was expensive but I justified the cost as it was rechargeable and, for cost-per-use, I convinced myself it would be worth it. It felt like a risk at the time but now it’s my most prized possession.

“While I still take medication to stop my acne from spreading, the scarring and redness have remained. Using my red light mask nightly has significantly decreased the redness and, when I’ve taken breaks from using it, my skin feels angrier.”

Seemingly, red and near-infrared light can help with acne, inflammation, collagen production, laxity, fine lines and more. Is this why the global LED mask market is expected to grow 12.4 percent by 2030, valuing $600 million? Or, why more brands are offering red light masks, wands, patches and devices? Let’s dig a little deeper.

While similar sounding, there’s a distinct difference between red light and infrared light. Top line red light helps with superficial issues like skin elasticity, collagen production and firing up the body’s energy cells (mitochondria). LED masks tend to use red light but some may incorporate near-infrared, too. Near-infrared, sometimes referred to as NIR, has longer wavelengths, is invisible to the human eye, travels further into the body and helps with deeper tissue problems like muscular injuries or neurological conditions. This type is most common in near-infrared saunas as it’s easier to target the entire body.

Dr Mohammed Enayat, a GP, functional medicine expert and founder of the longevity clinic Hum2n, breaks down the science.

“Red light refers to visible light in the longer wavelength range of around 630-700 nanometers (nm).” For context, UV rays are between 100-400 nm. “When directed at the body, these particular wavelengths of light can penetrate the skin and underlying tissues. At a cellular level, red light appears to stimulate increased collagen production, which can help reduce wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.

“It may also have beneficial effects on mitochondria, the energy powerhouses of cells, by improving their function and reducing oxidative stress. Near-infrared (NIR) light, on the other hand, has even longer wavelengths, in the 700-1000nm range and, compared to red light, can penetrate more deeply.”

In 2020, a study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology found that light-emitting diode (LED) phototherapy was a promising option for the noninvasive, accessible, safe treatment of ageing skin. However, Dr Enayat cautions, while promising the science behind red light therapy (photobiomodulation) is still emerging.

“While the exact mechanisms are still being researched, many studies have demonstrated potential therapeutic effects. However, the field would benefit from larger, more robust clinical trials to further validate the efficacy across different applications. The foundational science is there, but more evidence is still needed for it to be considered fully established.”

Scroll through social media and you’ll likely encounter at least one person wearing a (slightly terrifying-looking) red mask. Last year, influencer Amelia Liana shared a video with her 414k TikTok followers that showed her donning her red light mask on a long-haul flight. And she’s not the only one. I know many people who regularly pack red light masks as in-transit skincare. At home, I wear my red light mask (the CurrentBody Skin LED Light Therapy Mask) first thing in the morning, using the ten minutes to plan my day, make a matcha or, as is often the case, drift back to sleep. My sensitive, finicky, reactive skin feels stronger and plumper as a result – benefits that aren’t to be sniffed at.

In empirical evidence, light therapy has been shown to help with acne, wrinkles and scarring. A 2021 study found that when treating mild to moderate acne vulgaris (the scientific name for acne), both red and blue light had an observably positive effect (up to 36 percent) in reducing breakouts. Similarly, with scarring, light therapy has been demonstrably shown to help assuage inflammation and expedite wound healing, thanks in large part to the fact that repeated exposure to red light increases the activity of the skin’s mitochondria and fibroblast (connective tissue) growth, as well as collagen production.

Aesthetician Alicia Lartey discovered red light therapy three years ago while looking for healing treatments to offer to clients after chemical peels and microneedling. “After trying it for myself I found that my skin felt plumper and my breakouts would reduce more quickly. At times it’s helped with my hyperpigmentation but that isn’t my main motivation for using it. I find it brilliant for helping with stubborn skin conditions that need to heal.”

“Red light penetrates the superficial layers of the skin, making it ideal for boosting collagen and elastin, reducing the appearance of fine lines, stretch marks and scars,” says Dr Nima Mahmoodi, founder of Remedi London, a biohacking and aesthetics clinic in London. “It can also help improve skin conditions such as psoriasis, rosacea and eczema, improve skin texture and has also been shown to improve hair growth. Near-infrared light targets deeper into the tissues, including the nerves, muscles and bone, which is why it is ideal for helping to regenerate the cells, reduce inflammation, heal the tissues and can also help with pain relief.”

So, you’re adequately convinced that red light could be worth your time. But, are all red and near-infrared devices as good as each other? Well, no.

Red light devices are only as good as the dose of light delivered,” explains Joie Risk, managing director of sauna and infrared sauna brand Sunlighten. “Firstly consumers should ensure their device is CE certified.” This means the product has been assessed to ensure it meets EU safety, health or environmental regulations.

“Secondly, to avoid wasting money on ineffective devices, they should check the effectiveness of the red light being purchased. The effectiveness will depend on what method of delivery is used to deliver the light to ensure the body can absorb it. There is a magic formula for the joules (amount of light delivered), the irradiance of the light and how long the body or part of the body is exposed to the light to make it effective.”

Our best advice is to buy from a reputable seller or reputable concession. For red light masks, Current Body, MZ Skin, Omniluxe, Dermaluxe, Déesse Pro and Dr Dennis Gross are all leaders in the field. If in doubt, dig into the reviews online. What are people saying one to six months after purchasing? One year after consistent use? These are all easy ways to assess if a product is great or just great marketing. Side eye.

Unlike many other treatments, red and near-infrared light therapy are relatively low risk. Dr Ross Perry, medical director of Cosmedics Skin Clinics, says that between three and ten minutes every day is a great place to start. “Everyday use is fine because red light therapy doesn’t harm the surface of the skin, rather it helps to stimulate and repair the cells.” However, Dr Enayat cautions that those with photosensitive conditions like lupus or those taking medication that makes them more photosensitive should avoid or limit exposure.

I find it easier to get into a routine by doing something every day. And, because a red light mask only requires ten minutes of use, it’s easy to slot in. Now, the only question is, which red light device is right for you?