A new look emerged last season championed by the likes of Gabriette, Jenna Ortega and Doja Cat as a blend of goth bordering grunge by way of the nineties came through in a high fashion effortless way; and it’s still going strong. With deep muted tones on the lips, smudged shades around the eyes and cool toned sculpting to the face this isn’t about looking predictably pretty or following trends, it’s about highlighting depth and embracing a more sophisticated version of grunge that everyone can wear. Going against this homogenous world we now live in, it’s the antithesis of looking like everyone else and instead, it leans into individuality whilst delivering an elevated and polished, impeccable makeup.
This type of beauty is a direct push back to the clean girl aesthetic, she’s not afraid to express herself and celebrate her femininity with dark, moody tones that feel reminiscent of the nineties but are re-defined with modern textures. The fresh faced naivety of lightly flushed cheeks and glossy lips of course has it’s place but this is all about leaning in to how you feel and not being influenced by everyone else around you. Use your emotional presence as a starting point and allow yourself to express it freely with makeup; breaking the rules however you see fit. That deep red lip colour that could work perfectly as eyeshadow? Try it. A sepia brown eyeliner that might just be the exact shade of lipstick you were searching for? Apply it. This look is all about rebelling and pushing boundaries whilst feeling effortlessly pulled together.
The key to this form of makeup is to gently touch the edges of goth and grunge whilst not falling fully down the rabbit hole, you want to feel like a modern woman with defiant feminine energy. The first place to start is to look at your colour palette; where you may be inclined towards warmer sun kissed tones (tan, peach, gold) try switching them out for a cooler option. Lips can be glossy or matte but opt for darker shades of wine and coffee or if a bolder lip isn’t your thing it could be as simple as trying a cooler toned lip liner. MAC’s Lip Pencils in Stone and Nightmoth are unexpectedly flattering creating depth and definition whilst feeling neutral in tone.
When looking at eye makeup within this realm, lean into it feeling less than perfect and choose products that are going to work with you in this sense. Think smudgy kohl pencils (with new formulas that set so that it doesn’t continue to travel down your face all day) and you don’t just have to use black; I’m obsessed with the Victoria Beckham Eye Pencil in Bordeaux for a vampiric burgundy and Chanel’s Style Yeux Waterproof in Eros that has more of a plum tone to it. Both will give the sense of a smoky eye yet subtly enhance any eye colour they are paired with. For shadow around the eye keep it close to the lash line and wing it out for a sexy smoke or go deeper into the inner eye socket to exaggerate that little dimple of hollowness and engage your inner soft goth core. The ability to blend is key here as you want to avoid harsh lines, look for buttery textured eyeshadow palettes and a super soft blending brush for the perfect fade; my favourite is the Merit No. 2 Double Sided Eyeshadow Brush as you can create definition and diffusion with just one tool.
Finally this look is pulled together with eyebrows and skin. Channelling Jenna Ortega I would love to encourage you to bleach your brows or if you already have limited brow hair to pencil them into skinny, 90’s perfection a la Gabriette but I also appreciate that brows structure a face and it can be a difficult look to pull off. Keep them soft and light so that they don’t distract from the rest of the makeup and likewise skin should feel not too polished with just a little coverage and cooler contours that gently sculpt the cheekbones with a sheen that says I’m not afraid to get stuck in. You want your base to feel illuminated to counteract the darker shades and be sure to use a light touch so that it all feels modern. This woman may be grunge inspired but she’s rooted in the present and delivers her makeup completely on her own terms.
“This product looks like skin and feels good for you as it’s packed with skincare ingredients such as Niacinamide and Polyglutamic Acid to improve skin tone and plump up texture. Apply with fingertips or a damp sponge to get effortless coverage for a your skin but better result.”