Cast your mind back to when you were eight. Were you focused on your skincare routine and serums? Well, for the eight-year-olds of today, the pressing concern at hand is exactly that: skincare. And not just the odd face wash or moisturiser, but anti-ageing skincare – we’re talking retinoids, AHAs, and other potent actives that you’d think should be the very last things on their minds.
According to the BBC, children and pre-teens are asking their parents for anti-ageing products from brands like Drunk Elephant and Bubble, after seeing them endorsed by influencers on social media platforms like YouTube and TikTok.
But is it really surprising they’ve picked up on our society’s unbridled obsession with ageing, and the agency that youthfulness provides? Just as the kids of the ’90s and ‘00s watched our elders crash dieting and calorie counting, so the girls of Gen Alpha – and it is primarily girls that are affected – have witnessed our growing preoccupation with line-free skin, plumped lips, and 10-step beauty routines. And the impact of that is showing.
“In today’s society, there’s a heavy emphasis on women and girls looking a certain way and investing in their appearance, and we know that they’re judged disproportionately based upon how they look. I don’t think it’s entirely surprising, then, that if using skincare is something girls see as a symbol of womanhood, that they’ll also show an interest in it,” says Professor Phillippa Diedrichs, research psychologist and body image expert at the Centre for Appearance Research in Bristol, as well as author of The Body Confidence Book, which is aimed at teenagers.
“With social media there is increased marketing of these products, which girls can be exposed to whether or not that marketing is directly targeting them. What message is it sending girls if we’re saying that this is the way to be a woman?” Diedrichs asks.
This preoccupation with anti-ageing skincare routines amongst ever-younger demographics is playing out right in front of our eyes with Instagram and TikTok racking up millions of views. Drunk Elephant – a favoured brand among tweens, ostensibly because of its colourful packaging and playful branding – has even been forced to post on Instagram warning that some of its products are unsuitable for young skin. And just look at Sweden – one of the country’s leading pharmacy chains has gone as far as to introduce age restrictions on products featuring certain anti-ageing ingredients.
Much of the content resonating with younger consumers online focuses on the notion of “prejuvenation” – the desire to get ahead of the ageing process through preventative anti-ageing skincare. Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist at Harley Street’s Self London clinic, says this is something she’s seen play out among her clientele.
“I’ve had an increase in teens who are concerned about anti-ageing coming in, which is incredibly worrying,” she says. “The rise of social media and beauty influencers has influenced this shift, promoting a culture of early intervention for ageing concerns.” As well as the undeniable effects of this anti-ageing obsession on young people’s self-esteem and mental health, Dr Mahto says it’s no good for their skin either.
“At this age, the focus should be on sunscreen, a gentle cleanser and a moisturiser suited to their skin type,” she explains. “While I acknowledge that the ‘prejuvenation’ concepts exist, using anti-ageing products may actually pose risks to pre-teens.”
Take retinol, a powerful anti-ageing ingredient derived from vitamin A and renowned for its ability to smooth skin’s texture and act on fine lines might work wonders for many, but its potential side effects include increased sensitivity to sunlight, irritation, redness, dryness, and peeling, particularly in young, delicate skin. “Overuse or improper application can exacerbate these effects,” warns Dr Mahto. “As dermatologists, we advocate for a balanced approach, prioritising skin care practices that promote overall skin health rather than solely focusing on anti-ageing concerns, especially in our younger patients.”
And what about the detrimental psychological aspect that being so focused on anti-ageing at this age can have? In the face of a social media landscape that offers little regulation around the content young people are exposed to, there will of course be repercussions.
“We know, and studies show, that exposure to social media content and advertising that focuses on beauty ideals can be detrimental to young people’s body image and often has an immediate effect within a couple of minutes of watching it.” Dr Mahto unveils. “We know that when girls experience low body confidence it has an impact on all aspects of their lives including psychological health, low self-esteem, and anxiety, and sometimes puts them at risk of eating disorders and depression.”
The problem is we are part of a bigger culture where girls are largely encouraged to focus on appearance and unrealistic beauty standards.
For parents concerned about the effects on their own children, Professor Diedrichs says it’s important to talk to young girls about the pressures of social media, gender stereotypes, and the reasons behind their desire to seek out anti-ageing products. “It’s important as parents to have these critical discussions – to become aware of what children are looking at on social media, and to raise their media literacy,” she says. “And finally, we can try to encourage children to have gratitude for the functions of their bodies, not just their appearances,” she adds.
And then there’s the way we view our own reflections in the mirror. We’ve all got a lot of unlearning to do when it comes to the connections we’ve forged between youth and beauty, age and agency (or lack of) and wrinkles and worth. But if ageing is a privilege – and it is – then that’s the story we should all be trying to pass down.