This Is Exactly When To Expect Visible Results From Your Skincare Routine

“Improvement in as little as one week.*”

“50 percent dark spot reduction in four weeks.**”

“3x more effective than retinol.***”

So say the claims slapped onto bottles, tubes and jars of zingy active ingredients designed to improve skin’s elasticity, tone, plumpness and hydration. Some go as far as to indicate that benefits can be seen in as little as one night’s sleep or one day’s use. 

These claims, as eye-catching as they are dramatic, are usually paired with before and after images showing substantial improvements in everything from hyperpigmentation to fine lines, dehydration and dark under-eye circles. And the results are often credited to a particular product or active ingredient. A niacinamide that’s levelled out bumpy and uneven skin texture, for example. Or a retinol that’s sloughed off enough dead cells and build-up to reveal brighter, firmer, rejuvenated skin beneath. Active ingredients that have done exactly what they say they will. 

Generally, these results alone are enough to inspire a quick add-to-cart. Yet, a week or two of dedicated use later and you’re feeling slightly deflated. Where the advertised results looked staggering, your skin looks largely similar to where you started. What’s the deal? Why is your skincare working more slowly and more subtly than the persuasive claims suggested? And when is it time to try something else?

First, back to basics. 

“Active ingredients are compounds in skincare products that have been scientifically proven to produce specific effects on the skin,” aesthetic doctor and medical director of the Adonia Medical Clinic, Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme explains to The File. “These effects can range from hydration and exfoliation to anti-ageing and acne treatment.” Popular ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and retinol (a derivative of vitamin A) are all ‘active’ in nature, targeting texture, hydration, skin tone and fine lines in turn. 

Inactive ingredients, on the other hand, are those that are present in skincare products but don’t have a specific outcome attached. This might be something in the formula that helps with the way a product feels on the skin or a preservative to help extend its shelf life. Both active and inactive ingredients are important in a product but it’s the active ones we’re most concerned with here. 

It’s easy to blame substandard results on the products we’ve used. Especially when we feel as though we were promised the moon and instead delivered a small wheel of cheese. But, there are environmental and lifestyle elements that can impact how effectively these products work. 

“Various factors influence how quickly skincare ingredients work, including environmental conditions like temperature and humidity,” Dr Maham Khan, a consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic, explains. “For example, dry skin tends to have compromised barrier function, making it less effective at absorbing and utilising active ingredients.” 

The skin barrier (the very upper layer of the epidermis) is your body’s first defence against things like bacteria, environmental toxins, pollution, irritation and infection, as well as being the structure that keeps the skin full of moisture. If it’s dry to the point of being compromised (not functioning at optimal), the products you put on top will have an uphill battle trying to work as intended. 

Or, for an active ingredient like hyaluronic acid that pulls moisture towards it (from your moisturiser, oil or the air around you) cold, dry days are the exact opposite of what it needs. 

“In the summer you get a certain amount of humidity in the air which can affect how the skin retains moisture,” says Dr Ross Perry, medical director of Cosmedics skin clinics. “An ingredient like hyaluronic acid works best when there’s moisture in the air to pull in the skin.” 

Finally, the way you store your skincare can make a sizeable difference. No, you don’t need to invest in a skincare fridge – although if you want one, more power to you. The key is to avoid putting an active ingredient-containing product in direct sunlight. The UV rays and heat can degrade and destabilise the quality of the ingredients inside, leaving you with an expensive yet ineffective product. 

Best practise is to keep skincare at room temperature or cooler (not frozen) and out of direct sunlight. Some brands, like Medik8 and SkinCeuticals, help by producing products in dark or tinted bottles. 

Thanks to the fact it pulls water and moisture towards it, the hydrating effects of hyaluronic acid should be seen immediately. Over time, says Dr Ejikeme, improvements in skin texture and plumpness will become apparent, too. 

Try: La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum, £45 or Beauty Pie Triple Hyaluronic Acid Lipopeptide Serum, £90 for non-members, £24 for members

Responsible for a bright and even skin tone, vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that protects against inflammation and irritation. Dr Ejikeme advises that visible improvements in skin brightness and the reduction of hyperpigmentation may be seen within a few weeks of consistent use.

Try: Medik8 C-Tetra Lipid C Radiance Serum, £39 or SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic Vitamin C Antioxidant Serum, £165

Lauded for reducing the appearance of visible pores, addressing redness and improving how robust the skin is, niacinamide is a hardworking active ingredient to include in your routine. “A reduction in redness, improved skin texture, and minimised pore appearance can typically be seen within four to eight weeks of regular use,” says Dr Khan. 

Try: Naturium Niacinamide Serum 12% Plus Zinc 2%, £18 or The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% Plus Zinc 1%, £9

A reduction in fine lines and an improvement in skin texture should happen around week three, advises Dr Perry, with a marked improvement between eight and 12 weeks. “The first time you use retinol you may experience some sensitivity,” he cautions. “In fact, for many people, the skin can become flaky and break out during the first few days. However, this should calm down after a week or so.”

For retinol novices, pick a low-strength formulation and start slowly, using it once or twice a week, followed by a rich moisturiser and SPF during the day. 

Try: Medik8 Intellifent Retinol 3TR, £39 or Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum, £92

Ceramides are critical for helping the skin retain water and the healthy functioning of the skin barrier. According to Dr Ejikeme, a stronger skin barrier and improvement in skin hydration can be observed within a few weeks of consistent use. Remember, though – the efficacy of ceramides will depend on where your skin starts from. If you have little dehydration, results might be quicker than someone with extremely dehydrated skin, for example. 

Try: The Inkey List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer, £19 or Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Infused Ectoin Cream, £54

There are many types of exfoliating ingredients – alpha, beta, poly and lipo hydroxy acids, to be exact – and each has a slightly different results timeline. 

Alpha and beta hydroxy acids should show improvements to skin texture within a few weeks but long-term use will reap significant results, Dr Ejikeme explains. Poly and lipo hydroxy acids, which are more gentle on the skin, might take a little longer with results between three weeks and several months. Lipo hydroxy acids, in particular, are especially beneficial for acne-prone skin. 

Try: REN Clean Skincare Radiance Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic, £30, Emma Lewisham Illuminating Exfoliant, £48, Medik8 Press & Glow Daily Exfoliating PHA Tonic with Enzyme Activator, £32 or La Roche-Posay Effaclar Micro-Peeling Purifying Gel Cleanser, £13

As the name suggests, active ingredients are designed to work on specific concerns and can cause some irritation in the process. While a settling-in period is to be expected, anything that causes consistent contraindications (side effects) is worth reconsidering. Patch testing on the inside of the lower arm or the neck and chest can help you know if your skin will react adversely to it. Similarly, if you find that after six to eight weeks you’re still seeing little to no change, it might be time to explore an alternative product or formulation.