I was recently given a fragrance from a brand I never expected to be drawn to. Hugely popular (with one product reportedly selling every six seconds) with a younger audience Sol de Janeiro feels fun and young yet, as a woman in her thirties, I’ve found myself reaching for the Cheirosa 59 perfume mist on days when I want a light fragrance that lingers and layers easily. And this was my gateway to gourmand.
Gourmand notes refer to edible-inspired scents that create cosy warmth and nostalgic memories. Traditionally appealing to younger consumers for their simplicity and universal appeal, the expanding market has encouraged more sophisticated brands to embrace these notes in complex, layered fragrances for a more discerning audience. As Yasmin Sewell of Vyrao explains, “we live in a world that’s intense and chaotic, there’s so much pressure, so many demands. What people reach for now are scents that do more than smell nice; they want something that gives a little lift”.
The rise of gourmand fragrance was especially noticeable last year. While Sol de Janeiro has been a gateway for Gen Z, sweet notes have appeared across the industry, from Phlur’s Vanilla Skin Body Mist topping Space NK rankings to BDK launching Vanille Caviar. With fragrance and memory being deeply connected, it encourages us to seek scents that evoke comfort and joy while still feeling sophisticated; this desire pushes perfumers to refine traditionally sweet notes with nuance and maturity, avoiding territory that feels overly juvenile. David Seth Moltz of D.S & Durga captures this shift: “We’re all sick of the same old vanilla cupcake stuff. Perfumers are pushing the boundaries into savoury notes, also going surreal or over the top.” Their Brooklyn-based house reflects this approach; I’ve been repeatedly wearing Cognac Reign, blending tonic base notes with cognac essence and caramelised bergamot – edible, yet smoky and grown-up.
Gourmand fragrance’s appeal lies in its indulgence and addictive quality, but balance is essential. While we may crave sweetness, we don’t necessarily want to smell like dessert; we want comfort, sophistication, and individuality. Jun Lim, Founder of BornToStandOut, echoes this sentiment: “add texture, depth, and an unexpected twist, and suddenly that ‘cute’ edible scent becomes seductive, decadent, and impossible to forget”.
From all of this, one truth remains clear: elevated, long-lasting fragrances rely on high-quality ingredients and expert craftsmanship. When balance, depth, and contrast are carefully executed, the result is compelling and addictive – without a cupcake in sight.
