Tell Me: Is Dermaplaning The Key To Brighter, Smoother, Happier Skin?

Little in beauty feels more divisive than dermaplaning. Ask the disciples and they’ll tell you that their skin has never felt smoother, looked brighter or swallowed up their skincare more effectively. For critics, the complaints read like a side effects nightmare: rashes, redness, scarring and acne – and, on occasion, darker, thicker hair. On TikTok, videos tagged into the #dermaplaning have over five billion views. That’s the equivalent of 63 percent of the global population watching a video on dermaplaning once in their lifetime. It’s a lot.

In layman’s terms, dermaplaning is the process of removing the top layer of skin, which mostly consists of dead skin cells that haven’t yet sloughed off, dirt from the environment and vellus (thin, fine, downy) hair. A small scalpel or razor blade is used and the results, if the proponents are to be believed, are life-changing. Underneath, softer, brighter skin that absorbs skincare more efficiently and is a better canvas for make-up, is revealed. The downsides, seemingly, are non-existent.

Phoebe, a 30-year-old accountant living in London says dermaplaning gave her the skin she had coveted for years.

“I never understood how models and celebrities had such dewy, flawless skin, with make-up and without,” she shared with The File. “I could never get that look. My make-up would be cakey and patchy. Then, I read about dermaplaning. And, after a lot of research and years of doing it, I’ve found all the benefits to be true. My skin is smoother, softer and infinitely more glowy.”

But, compare this with the thousands of comments left on social media saying that taking a razor to their skin caused the hair to grow faster and thicker, and we’re left at an impasse. How can something be so adored and yet so abhorred? And, is there a way to dermaplane that could negate the bad and usher in only the good, glowing skin it promises? The File investigates.

“Dermaplaning is a manual exfoliation technique used to scrape off the top layers of the skin (medically known as the stratum corneum) to brighten the skin and allow skincare products to penetrate more deeply,” explains aesthetic doctor Dr David Jack who offers dermaplaning as part of his signature Egyptian Facial (from £250). “It has the added benefit of removing fine vellus hairs, commonly known as peach fuzz.”

The soft, downy hair on your face, arms and neck is what’s known as ‘vellus’. It’s fuzzy, fine and, if you’re like me, might stick up when you’re cold. Unlike terminal hair (the coarser hair found on your genitals and scalp), the vellus hair follicle sits much shallower in the skin and, scientifically, cannot grow back thicker or darker.

Vellus hair helps to regulate body temperature and can help to wick away leftover sweat and sebum that sits on the surface. Removing it isn’t detrimental to your health. Your body, save for any other condition, will still be able to stay warm and cool down without it. Terminal hair is darker and thicker and is designed to act as a barrier from things like bacteria and dirt but it also helps to regulate the body’s temperature, as well.

Shaving or dermaplaning can’t turn vellus hair into terminal hair. Reports of darker, thicker hair after trying one of these are often the result of the hair becoming more noticeable rather than the hair changing in any way. Vellus hair cannot morph into terminal hair by shaving or dermaplaning.

“Scientifically, dermaplaning does not affect the thickness, growth rate, or colour of the vellus hair since it only removes the hair above the skin level,” Dr Jack assures me. However, he says, underlying hormonal conditions can affect or increase hair growth or change hair growth patterns.

Think about it. A fine, fluffy hair that’s grown on the face for years, will likely be thinner and tapered at the end, making it less visible on the skin. When that hair is removed at the base, by shaving or dermaplaning, a wider, flatter base is left, meaning that when the hair grows out, it’ll grow from this more visible point.

Speak to a dermaplaning enthusiast and they’ll likely extoll the laundry list of benefits associated with the technique. Namely, improved skin texture and brightness, amongst others. And it makes sense. Without realising, our skin accrues a layer of build-up over time – no matter how well we double cleanse, wash our pillowcases or clean our make-up brushes. This build-up is an (admittedly gross-sounding) blend of dead skin cells, dirt and sebum and can make the skin look duller as a result. By scraping off the top layer with a sharp blade when dermaplaning, we slough off not only the hair but this veil of build-up, too. It tracks, then, that glowing, rejuvenated skin should follow.

Tara, a magazine beauty editor, experienced increased facial hair growth due to undiagnosed polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), sharing that coarser hair was one of her symptoms. Laser, which can exacerbate hair growth in people with underlying hormonal conditions, was off the cards and bleach, her previous maintenance method, simply couldn’t disguise the hair anymore. Dermaplaning seemed like the best, most realistic option*.

“The fine hairs on my face had already multiplied and it was making me feel self-conscious. Back then, there weren’t nearly as many dermaplaning razors available to the public and I would buy packs of Shiseido blades on Amazon, often waiting weeks for them to arrive. Before dermaplaning, I had never used a straight razor and the sharpness of it did worry me.

“Years later, my hair hasn’t grown back any thicker and my skin isn’t irritated and doesn’t break out. I stick predominantly to the area around my eyebrows, upper lip and chin and dermaplane about once every fortnight. Make-up sits better without the downy fluff, so if I have an event or know I’ll have my photo taken, I go to the extra effort of dermaplaning before.”

Similarly, Sabrina, a journalist based in London, found that dermaplaning helped her manage her hair growth after several rounds of facial laser.

“While I’ve had a few breakouts after dermaplaning, the hair hasn’t ever grown back thicker. But, it has been a lot of trial and error to find what works for me,” she describes. “This has included investing in a high-quality razor with interchangeable blades, skipping make-up until the skin has calmed down and sticking with gentle, non-irritating cleansers and moisturisers.”

Dermaplaning can be done in a clinic or at home but most skin professionals, including Dr Jack, recommend seeing a doctor or licensed aesthetician for the treatment.

“Trained professionals use a sterile surgical scalpel to carefully scrape the skin’s surface, ensuring safety and efficacy,” he tells me. “The problem with at-home devices is that they often are not particularly sharp, as surgical blades need to be used for the best results. In-clinic treatments will always be done using laser-cut scalpel blades, whereas at-home treatments tend to use machine-cut blades which are less sharp but safer to be sold to the public.”

If you do choose to dermaplane at home, there are some ways to ensure you’re giving your skin the best possible chance. That includes:

• Thoroughly cleansing your skin beforehand to remove make-up, SPF, oils and dirt.
• Sanitising your blade before use with rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide and allowing it to air-dry.
• Using a gentle facial oil or mist for slip on the skin while dermaplaning (this is especially important if you have sensitive skin).
• Avoiding any areas with active acne or breakouts.
• Going over the skin with light, gentle strokes, something Dr Jack says is crucial.
• Applying a gentle moisturiser and SPF afterwards.
• Stopping retinol and potent active ingredients directly after dermaplaning as it can exacerbate potential irritation.
• Throwing away the blade or razor after each use and using a new, sterile one each time.

Call me overly cautious but you only get one face. And how that face looks can have a severe impact on self-esteem, self-confidence and mental health. Taking a razor or blade to your skin shouldn’t be something that you do lightly.

“As with any cosmetic procedure, it’s always advisable to seek treatment in-clinic from a qualified and experienced practitioner,” cautions Update Aesthetic’s skin and aesthetics expert Nina Prisk. “Whilst dermaplaning is generally considered to be safe, it does carry risks which include redness and irritation to the skin, sensitivity, the skin barrier being compromised by small nicks which can make it more at risk of infection and scarring, and skin discolouration.”

My best advice would be to try it with a professional first. That way you’ll know how your skin will react to the best possible version of the treatment. Plus, you’ll have the added benefit of asking for tips on how to hold the blade, glide over the skin and what to do for aftercare, should you choose to try it yourself.

The Adonia Medical Clinic, founded by aesthetic doctor Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, offers dermaplaning from £80 per session.

Dr David Jack’s popular Egyptian Facial, £250, includes a fruit-based peel, dermaplaning, a hydrating mask and lymphatic drainage.

GP and holistic aesthetic doctor Dr Rabia Malik performs dermaplaning facials at the Harrods Wellness Clinic in Knightsbridge, West London. POA.

*While Tara found dermaplaning to work for her skin, other people with hormonal conditions like PCOS have found that removing the hair in this way can stimulate increased hair growth. Again, speaking to a professional is crucial, especially if you suspect you have a hormonal imbalance.