I’ve been seeing keratotherapist Helena Gruzka for years now, (she reigns supreme in Paris) and we’ve developed a skincare regimen tailored precisely to my skin’s needs, then I adjust it with seasonal changes and how my skin feels each day.
My morning routine is all about efficiency, especially with two kids to get ready for school. I start by rinsing my face with water only—no cleansers. Then I apply a vitamin C serum, alternating between La Roche-Posay and Sunday Riley’s C.E.O. Serum
Next is what I call “concoction time,” where I blend a small amount of Dr. Janka’s Milch-Héfé Biostimulin Crème with other products depending on my skin’s condition:
For dry days: I add Dr. Janka’s Soft Crème and Rouje L’Huile for extra hydration.
On good skin days: I opt for Naturium’s Multi-Peptides to keep my skin plump and smooth. Or Darphin Serum Essentiel, it was a gift, but it’s a definite repurchase. It’s incredibly lightweight, I adore it. Also like the Rhode glazing milk.
For PMS days: When breakouts happen, I reach for Dr. Janka’s Spézial Biostimulin Crème, which is targeted for spot treatment. It’s magic.
I massage it into the skin (it’s pretty thick) and depending on time I try and do a 3/4 minutes session of Guasha.
To finish up, I apply SPF, like the one from Beauty of Joseon, it’s very light and smooth.
Takes me no more than 5-10 minutes to get ready.
My evening routine is a bit more intensive. I double cleanse, starting with Bioderma Micellar Water, the original go-to for gentle cleansing. I also recently became a fan of Dore’s micellar and especially the reusable cloth pads that come with—they make makeup removal feel like a mini massage, the grip is great, and they’re so much more sustainable than single-use cotton. After micellar water, I follow with a more budget-friendly option, Anua’s Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil which feels similar.
A few times a week, I pat my skin with Lotion P50 (or softer version P50W depending on my skin that day). I’ll definitely skip it if it seems too harsh when I use retinol afterward.
Then serums. I’m lucky to receive quite a lot of products from friends in the industry, so I rotate: Biologique Recherche Elastine is a favorite mixed with a rich cream, and I also love Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair for the texture, doesn’t irritate the skin either.
Twice a week, I replace it by tretinoin, I’ve gradually built up over the past year. Hard at first to figure out frequency and dosage, but I now use it twice weekly and notice a real improvement in texture, though maybe that’s just me. My dermatologist prescribes it, and I usually pick it up in France (Effederm or Retacnyl, depending on availability). I use a tiny “noisette” (pea-sized amount) and follow it with a super thick layer of La Roche-Posay Cicaplast, which I always bring back from Paris four tubes at a time.
Same if I feel its not the right timing, I switch to a softer option I recently discovered AlphaRet Overnight Cream, from Skin Better Science, I absolutely love it.
My friend Quentin Jones also introduced me to red light therapy, and I ended up buying the led mask from Omnilux. I’m obsessed with it—the red light feels genuinely relaxing as well. My sister, a beauty geek, insists there are far better options on the market, but I’m content with this one for now. The only thing is my kids are completely terrified of it, so finding the right time to use it can be tricky, as it requires a solid 10 minutes of uninterrupted alone time which isn’t always easy to come by.
‘If I want a little more for an evening look, I’ll add this Laura Mercier Caviar Stick on that I smudge with my fingers on the lid and on my lower lash line.’